Navigating the world of retinoids can be a bewildering and intimidating experience due to the complex nature and terminology. This is why I've set out to simplify and clarify the subject for you all.
There is a hierarchy of retinoids spanning from least irritating/least effective to the most irritating/most effective. For individuals with sensitive skin, it's recommended to exercise caution before jumping into Tretinoin use right away.
Two main categories of retinoids exist: over-the-counter retinoids and prescription retinoids.
Retinoids are categorized into four primary groups: retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid. The initial three can be found in over-the-counter skincare products, while retinoic acid is exclusively obtainable by prescription.
Regardless of the specific retinoid you apply to your skin, your skin can only utilize its most biologically active variant, which is retinoic acid. Over-the-counter retinoids take time to turn into the most effective form of Retinoic Acid (Vitamin A) and therefore will take longer for you to notice results.
To understand this, imagine a cheap cup of coffee, latte, cappuccino, espresso, and a double espresso. All of them contain coffee. However, as you go up the list, the flavor of the coffee gets more intense and even has more caffeine per ounce. Double espressos consist of 100% pure espresso without any substance diluting it. It will be more effective at waking you up and will even taste better than a cheap cup of coffee. That cheap cup of coffee was made with bottom-of-the-barrel low-grade beans while the fancy double espresso was made at a farm where they hand-picked the finest coffee beans and are only available to prestigious coffee shops around the world. The espresso coffee has to go through an extensive amount of steps in order to become an espresso bean. Similarly, prescription retinoids go went through the necessary steps to become the most potent form of Vitamin A.
Now imagine that the double espresso is a prescription retinoid. Newbies to coffee will be turned off by double espressos and might even get the jitters from how strong it is. Prescription retinoids can turn people off due to their strength and not being able to handle the painful "purging" period.
Over-the-Counter Retinoids:
Retinyl Esters (Cheap cup of coffee)
Retinyl esters are the gentlest form of retinoids, they go through a total of three chemical reactions in order to become active retinoic acid on the skin. Retinoic Acid is the most effective at reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Retinyl Esters take 3 chemical reactions in order to even turn into Retinoic Acid. A prolonged conversion process through less potent Retinoids implies that it requires more time to observe noticeable results. Retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, and retinyl palmitate are ingredients to look for if you want a retinyl ester product.
Retinyl Esters > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Pure Retinoic Acid
Examples of products with Retinyl acetate, Retinyl Linoleate, and Retinyl palmitate
Retinol (latte)
Arguably the most renowned type of retinoid, celebrated for its numerous anti-aging and skin-renewing benefits, is retinol. Retinol undergoes a two-step conversion process to become retinoic acid, making it more potent than retinyl esters. However, it has gained notoriety for its potential to cause irritation, dryness, and skin peeling, which may pose challenges for individuals with sensitive skin. This is because the skin may require some time to adjust to retinol.
It's worth noting that retinol is considered approximately 20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin. This lower potency is due to retinol's time-release mechanism, which delivers it slowly into the skin over several hours, rather than all at once upon application.
Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Pure Retinoic Acid
Examples of products with Retinol
Bakuchiol (Retinol Alternative)
A naturally occurring compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea Corylifolia plant, also known as "babchi" or "bakuchiol," has garnered significant attention within the skincare industry. This attention stems from its perceived potential benefits and properties that closely resemble those of retinol, a widely recognized and frequently utilized anti-aging ingredient.
Bakuchiol is often used as a natural substitute for retinol due to its perceived ability to provide similar skincare advantages. These advantages include enhancing skin texture, reducing the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, and stimulating collagen production. Notably, bakuchiol is thought to achieve these benefits without the potential side effects and skin sensitivity commonly associated with retinol. Consequently, it is often considered a milder alternative, particularly suited for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
Examples of products with Bakuchiol
Retinaldehyde (cappuccino)
Often known as "retinal," stands as the most potent over-the-counter retinoid. It requires just one conversion step to become active, rendering it more potent than retinyl esters and retinol.
Despite it being more gentle than pure retinoic acid, you might still encounter irritation and dryness when using retinol
It's important to remember that the closer a retinoid is to retinoic acid, the more effectively it performs its functions, AND tends to be more drying and irritating. In simpler terms, among over-the-counter treatments, retinaldehyde boasts greater potency compared to Retinyl Esters but is also harsher.
Retinaldehyde > Pure Retinoic Acid
Examples of products with retinaldehyde
Adapalene
Adapalene stands as a synthetic retinoid that activates without requiring conversion into retinoic acid. Its effectiveness in addressing acne is well-established, and it has garnered attention for its role in addressing concerns like dark spots and fine lines within anti-aging products.
Moreover, research has demonstrated that Adapalene gel 0.1% exhibits significantly greater photostability than tretinoin 0.0025% gel
In a particular study, between 69 percent and 74 percent of individuals treated with adapalene reported "dramatic reductions" in both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions. Some studies suggest that adapalene offers comparable efficacy to tretinoin but appears to be associated with a lower likelihood of causing irritation.
Conversely, prescription-strength adapalene is not as extensively studied for its anti-aging properties and is typically less frequently prescribed than tretinoin for addressing signs of aging.
Examples of products with Adapalene
Prescription Retinoids
Retinoic acid represents the most potent form of retinoids and is immediately biologically active on the skin. It delivers faster results but may also bring about stronger side effects, including dryness, peeling, and irritation. This form is exclusively available by prescription and is prescribed for severe skin conditions like cystic acne, signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
At its highest concentration, retinoic acid can be significantly more powerful—often hundreds of times more potent—than the retinol or retinaldehyde found in cosmetic products. This heightened potency delivers superior outcomes and is worth checking out with your dermatologist if over-the-counter retinoids haven't worked for you.
> Pure Retinoic Acid
Trifarotene (espresso)
Trifarotene is a recent addition to prescription retinoids. It facilitates the removal of dead skin cells, pore unclogging, and prevention of acne formation. Trifarotene's strong preference for binding to RARg suggests that it might be particularly effective in targeting the underlying causes of acne. RARg is involved in regulating skin cell differentiation and the development of hair follicles, which play a role in the formation of acne lesions. By targeting RARg, Trifarotene may help regulate these processes and reduce acne symptoms.
Tretinoin (espresso)
Tretinoin, widely recognized as Retin-A, functions as a topical variant of pure retinoic acid and is exceptionally efficient in addressing a range of skin concerns, such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and fine lines. It possesses potency but can lead to flaking, dryness, redness, and an initial acne flare-up as the skin “purges” all of the gunk out. Gradual application and the use of a proper moisturizer can help the skin adapt more comfortably.
Isotretinoin (double espresso)
Isotretinoin, commonly known as Accutane, is the oral form of retinoic acid and ranks as the most potent and effective oral retinoid available. Medical professionals prescribe it for severe and treatment-resistant acne, as it possesses the capacity to permanently reduce sebum (oil) production. Side effects associated with isotretinoin include dry skin, dry eyes, nasal dryness, dry lips, and occasional muscle discomfort. Its effects are closely monitored through regular blood tests.
Tazarotene (double espresso)
Tazarotene, also recognized as Tazorac, ranks as the most potent topical retinoid. Its applications extend to treating acne, and psoriasis, and addressing the effects of skin photo-damage. Tazarotene can be notably drying and comes in various formulations, with gels being the most potentially irritating.
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